Prepare the ham
If you're using a cured ham, soak it in cold water overnight to remove excess salt. Fresh or uncured hams simply need rinsing before cooking - preparation varies depending on the cut you've chosen.
Build the flavour
Place the ham in a large cast iron casserole or stock pot. Add onions, carrots, bay leaves, parsley stalks and peppercorns if you like, creating a flavourful base before pouring over your chosen cooking liquid.
Add your aromatics
Water works perfectly well, but apple juice, cider, ginger ale or cola each bring their own subtle sweetness. Add aromatics such as cloves, cinnamon, star anise or fresh ginger to gently infuse the meat as it cooks.
Start the cooking
Preheat the oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3, arranging the shelves to leave plenty of room for the casserole. Pour in 1.5 litres of your chosen cooking liquid, cover with the lid and bring to the boil on the hob. Simmer for 15 minutes, then transfer to the oven.
Cook low and slow
Allow 35 minutes per 500g, plus a final 30 minutes, until the ham reaches an internal temperature of 71°C–74°C in the thickest part.
Alternatively, after simmering, transfer the ham and cooking liquid to a slow cooker and cook on low for 6–8 hours, checking it reaches the same internal temperature.
If preparing ahead, lift the cooked ham from the liquid, leaving the skin and fat intact. Allow to cool, wrap in foil and refrigerate for up to 1–2 days before glazing.
Glaze the ham
Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. If you've prepared the ham in advance, remove it from the fridge for around 45 minutes before glazing to allow it to come to room temperature. Carefully remove the skin, leaving an even layer of fat, then place the ham in a heavy-duty roasting tin. Score the fat in a criss-cross pattern, taking care not to cut into the meat.
Press cloves into the scored fat if you like, then brush generously with your chosen glaze. Honey and mustard are a classic combination, while marmalade and ginger bring a citrusy warmth, and treacle adds richness and deep colour.
Roast to perfection
Sprinkle with demerara sugar, then roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the glaze is sticky, golden and bubbling. If serving immediately, leave the ham to rest for 10 minutes under a loose foil tent before carving into generous slices.